Showing posts with label giy: gardening 101. Show all posts
Showing posts with label giy: gardening 101. Show all posts

Monday, May 10, 2010

How to Start a Vegetable Garden from Seed in Your Home

How to Start a Vegetable Garden from Seed in Your Home
by Jennie Lyon
Tuesday, March 23, 2010

http://blog.cascadianfarm.com/category/living/veggies-101-how-to-start-a-vegetable-garden-from-seed-in-your-home.aspx?WT.mc_id=CF_Email_May10_Recipe

Did you know that you can start your own vegetable garden from seeds in your home? Not only is it true, but it is super budget friendly, green and fun for the entire family. When choosing the vegetables that you want to grow, remember that plants such as tomatoes, beans, cucumbers and peppers need a longer period of time to grow. Starting them from seeds in your home is a great way to grow plants that will produce a full harvest throughout the season.

What you will need to start growing at home:

* Assorted Organic Seeds.
* Reusable Plastic Greenhouses, Trays, Flats or Pots.
* Expandable Peat Pellets or Soil.

How to get started:

1. Place a pre-soaked peat pellet or moistened soil inside each container. Make a small hole in the center of the peat pellet or soil and sprinkle seeds into the holes. To determine the planting depth, consult the seed packet.

2. Cover the seeds with the recommended amount of moistened soil. Cover the seeds and place them in a sunny south facing windowsill. Label the containers with the name of each plant and the date that the seeds were planted.

3. In 7-10 days the seeds will sprout, at this time thin them until just one plant is remaining. Using a pair of tweezers will give you expert precision when thinning the seedlings.

How to transplant:

1. When the seedlings develop their adult leaves (usually within 4-8 weeks), it is time to transplant them into larger pots.

2. My family uses 4" reusable pots that are filled with potting soil that has been moistened. Choose a warm and sunny spot in your home for the plants to continue to grow. If you do not have somewhere for the larger potted plants to grow, you may want to consider growing them under fluorescent lights. My family has started our garden in our basement for many years using this method.

3. Once the plants are large enough to be moved outside, you will need to harden them off. Hardening them off means that you are getting the seedlings ready to be planted outside. In Springtime, to harden the seedlings off, you will need to sit them outside in a shady spot during the day and them bring them back into the warmth of your home at night. Gradually, move the seedlings to a sunny spot in your yard during the day. After 7-10 days of hardening, your seedlings will be ready for planting in your garden.

Keeping your veggies happy in the garden:

Once your vegetables are planted in your garden, you will want to provide them with a regular supply of water, keeping the soil moist, at least until the seedlings put down their roots. Using mulch in your garden is an excellent way to keep the soil moist. Remember to weed your garden on a regular basis and to use natural pest control remedies to keep the creepy critters at bay.


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Sunday, July 5, 2009

How does your city garden grow?

How does your city garden grow?
Seed sales are way up, and raising your own food is all the rage. It's a good time to be an urban farmer By Amy Benfer Jul. 04, 2009
Link to full article below

To get to the apartment I share with my boyfriend and teenage daughter, the directions go something like this: Take the R train to Brooklyn. When you get out, you will see a check-cashing place on your right, and a discount coffin outlet to your left. Go straight, past the abandoned gas station, toward the Brooklyn-Queens Expressway. When you reach the building between the abandoned house and the tire shop, you have arrived...

In one corner is a flowering mimosa tree; in the other, a rosebush with bright fuchsia flowers that when we first moved in were the only spot of color amid the dirt, discarded toys and 4-foot-tall weeds that we cut down and replaced with a patio made from scavenged bricks, then laid by hand. Running all around the perimeter is our garden: two 16-foot-long raised beds with a dozen heads of lettuce, 10 kinds of heirloom tomatoes, Brussels sprouts, Italian striped zucchini, eggplants, cucumbers, chard and French breakfast radishes, most of which we bought as seedlings at the Polish grocery down the street. We have a Meyer lemon tree, a pomegranate tree and a pineapple, all in large pots that I found at a garden shop in Brooklyn’s Chinatown. Edamame, snap peas, nasturtiums and alpine strawberries snake up the metal utility pole. In early spring, we have lilacs and peonies; by midsummer, we’ll see the star lilies and blueberries and raspberries.

To read the full article: http://www.salon.com/mwt/feature/2009/07/04/city_gardening/index.html?source=newsletter

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Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Organic Gardening - video

Organic Gardening - video

http://video.nationalgeographic.com/video/player/environment/going-green-environment/green-home-makeover/organic-vegetables-gg.html

Can Gardening Make Your Sex Life Better?

Can Gardening Make Your Sex Life Better?
By Makenna Goodman, Chelsea Green Publishing
June 25, 2009
(link to full article - see below)

Let me set the scene. It's a summer day somewhere in central Vermont. There's a sweet-smelling breeze picking up whiffs of the last day of lilac season. There are no black flies in this luscious breeze, and you're kneeling in the dirt. You reach across a 30-inch bed to gently pluck the weeds away from the brassicus varieties. You've been working outside all morning, there's sweat under your arms, on your face, on your chest. The smell of the earth infiltrates your being, and all is beauty, efficiency, and food production…until a thundercloud passes overhead. The sun goes away, and the clouds bring the threat of rain. You look at your better half, who has reached the end of the row he or she has been weeding. They're bending over, working their hands in the dirt. You've just pulled out the first carrot of the season, and you brush off the dirt, and take a sweet bite. It's the best thing you've ever tasted. You pass a water bottle back and forth with
your lover. It begins to rain. You rush inside, and I bet you can guess what happens next.

Gardening -- besides my proposed sexual connotations -- is satisfying. And while weekend-long weeding can suck at the height of summer, all in all gardening is a valuable alternative to the grocery store, and allies humans with the sensualities of the land. There have been tomes written on gardening (see here and here); both the various techniques for various seasons, and the philosophy behind what it means to work the land. There is no doubt in my mind -- and if you're into gardening or enjoy visiting gardens, I think you'll agree -- that gardening, albeit hard work, is an intimate way to connect with the earth, and a delightful way to spend the day. My question is -- aside from all of the obvious benefits to man and land -- does gardening make sex better?

To read the full article:
http://www.alternet.org/sex/140930/can_gardening_make_your_sex_life_better/

Wednesday, June 3, 2009

Backyard Vegetable Garden

Backyard Vegetable Garden

http://eartheasy.com/grow_backyard_vegetable_garden.html

This is how our family refers to our small backyard vegetable garden. In just 500 sq.ft. (20' x 25'), we enjoy a wealth of fresh vegetables up to eight months of the year.

Working in the garden is also a shared experience for the family, and instills in children an understanding of the natural cycles of growth which provide lessons of lifelong value.

Consider the benefits of growing your own vegetables at home:
- lowers the cost of providing your family with healthy, organic vegetables
- reduces the environmental impact of transporting and warehousing food
- makes your meals more personal, interesting
- connects your family to the natural cycles of weather, growth and renewal
- provides wholesome activity and lasting memories for your children

Ideally, a backyard vegetable garden should contribute to your family's well-being without taking too much of your scarce free time. This can be achieved with a little planning to get started out right, and a commitment to low-maintenance organic methods which save time and ensure a healthy garden year after year.

To read their full and great article, which has many details!:
http://eartheasy.com/grow_backyard_vegetable_garden.html

Friday, May 29, 2009

Growing Vegetables and Fruit - Part 3

Growing Vegetables and Fruit - Part 3
by Diana Greenwood Mead
December 9, 2008

http://www.supermarketguru.com/index.cfm/go/sg.viewArticle/articleId/169

Cold Cabbage by Diana Greenwood Mead Once you have made your mind up about where in your garden you can grow something nice to eat, the next important step is deciding what to grow.
This may sound a little obvious – but if you read traditional gardening books you can sometimes be overwhelmed as they set out for you a pattern of vegetable growing which covers all the vegetables and all the year.
Start small, and let your successes and failures guide you.
I would say, start with the herbs you like to use in food – it’s such a pleasure to add (for example) a handful of chopped parsley, mint, oregano and chives to a salad or to stuff a roasting chicken with rosemary, lavender, mint and garlic (or add to barbecued fish) – or whatever combination pleases you.

Garlic, if you like it, is easily grown, but takes quite a long time to mature - I’ve put mine in pots now, to get it ready for planting out in the spring, and it should be ready by mid-summer. Even if you don’t like the taste, it seems to be a good pest deterrent when grown close to other food plants (and also roses – some of which need all the help they can get to tackle pests).
Friends and neighbours, your local garden shops, books and the internet will all be useful in guiding you to what grows well in your part of the world – gardening is a very good way of making friends. It always pleases me when I drive along a road and see the same plant recurring in neighbouring gardens as it is a pretty good bet that cuttings or seeds have been handed from friend to friend.

As well as herbs add salad plants to your yard or pots – but don’t expect them to come up overnight. Those grown for supermarkets have often been dosed with chemicals in order to force them into maturity as quickly as possible - which is why they don’t taste of very much. Tomatoes are useful and delicious, and if you are really in a hurry try the oriental salad plants as they are fairly fast maturing.
Things like Pak Choi (also called Bok Choi) and Mizuna greens.
Don’t forget to add a few edible flowers – pansies, nasturtiums, marigolds, chive flowers all look pretty and taste good in salads. Check in books or a good internet site to make sure you are only growing the safe ones.

The most difficult habit to acquire is that of succession sowing...

To read the full article: http://www.supermarketguru.com/index.cfm/go/sg.viewArticle/articleId/169

Saturday, May 23, 2009

Plants That Will Suck Your Yard Dry

Plants That Will Suck Your Yard Dry
By Tasha Eichenseher
May 20, 2009

http://www.thegreenguide.com/greenguide/home-garden/garden/drought-resistant-plants?source=email_gg_20090520&email=gg

Nearly 2 billion people already live in water-stressed regions, where subtle shifts in average annual temperatures could mean inadequate water supplies for people and the environment, according to the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change.

When water is scarce in sub-Saharan Africa, people spend hours searching for and collecting drinking water. When drought hits Nevada, people have to change the way they wash their cars and tend to their yards.

In urban areas of arid Texas, about 25 percent of treated water goes toward landscaping, according to experts at the Texas A&M Department of Horticultural Sciences.

Even small steps can make a difference, so when planting this spring and summer, consider using native species already adapted to the environment you live in. They will require little more than natural rainfall. You can also make soil improvements that help absorb and hold water, and use mulch to prevent water loss through evaporation. “Mulch is your greatest ally in drought conditions,” according to Organic Gardening magazine editor Ethne Clarke.

But most importantly, avoid these thirsty varieties:

Tropical and exotic plants:

Species such as hibiscus and banana, commonly used in landscaping, come from tropical regions that get a lot of rain. These plants tend to have fairly high water requirements.

"Foliage structure tells you a lot about water needs," said David Ellis,
 editor of The American Gardener, the magazine of the American Horticultural Society. Plants with large glossy dark leaves tend to absorb more heat and require a lot of water, and a larger leaf surface area equals greater water loss. If hydrating is a concern, stick with hairy, smaller, and lighter-colored or silvery leaves that retain water and diffuse light, such as lambs ear, rosemary, or lavender, Ellis advises.

Exotics in general will probably need more water than native species, Ellis adds. Try to avoid rapidly growing tropical plants with soft, pithy, and fleshy trunks—these are usually plants with large water contents. The banana tree, for example, is 90 percent water.

To read the full article: http://www.thegreenguide.com/greenguide/home-garden/garden/drought-resistant-plants?source=email_gg_20090520&email=gg

Tuesday, May 12, 2009

20 secrets to a flourishing frugal garden

20 secrets to a flourishing frugal garden
By Jenny C. McCune

http://www.bankrate.com/dls/news/real-estate/20040910a1.asp

Any gardener knows that it takes a lot more than a green thumb to get
plants to grow. But you don't necessarily have to spend a fortune at the
local nursery to ensure your plants prosper.

These 20 tips can keep your flower beds and bank account flourishing.

1. Know what will grow well in the area.
Bob Gough, a professor of horticulture and an extension horticulture
specialist at Montana State University in Bozeman, has watched the
frustration of transplanted gardeners. "We have so many people moving to
Bozeman who think that what grows well in Baton Rouge will grow well
here," he says. "They spend exorbitant amounts of money and then
everything dies."

Even if you've lived in the same area for years, do your homework and find
out what will thrive and survive in your soil and climate. Similarly,
determine what plants are hardier so you don't spend a lot of time and
money battling vermin or insects.

2. Get free advice.
You don't have to pay for professional planting help. Check in with your
county's agricultural extension office. It has information on what to
grow, what climate zone your home is in and the length of your growing
season.

3. Start from scratch.
Grow plants from seeds or cuttings rather than buying them. For even more
savings, collect seeds from your own or a neighbor's plants. Not only is
it economical, but you'll probably be rewarded with more variety.

But before you become a regular Johnny Appleseed, consider the time and
effort of growing from seeds and do so only when practical. If the seeds
require a lot of tender loving care, such as special lights and other
paraphernalia, it might ultimately be cheaper to buy plants.

Gough, for example, has found that growing tomato plants from scratch just
won't work in Montana's extremely short growing season. By the time the
tomato seedlings are ready to be planted in the garden, there aren't
enough cultivation days left for the plants to bear fruit.

4. Think small.
If you do opt for plants, think small rather than big, says Lance Walheim,
a horticulturist and spokesman for the Bayer Advanced line of fertilizers,
insecticides and pesticides. More mature plants, he notes, cost more.

To read the full article:
http://www.bankrate.com/dls/news/real-estate/20040910a1.asp

Monday, May 11, 2009

Plan A Beautiful Vegetable Garden

Plan A Beautiful Vegetable Garden
The path to a picturesque potager is just a few pleasant steps from the pea patch you're already tending.
By Jack Staub

http://www.organicgardening.com/featureprint/1,7759,s1-5-19-1434,00.html
http://www.organicgardening.com/feature/0,7518,s1-5-19-1434,00.html?cm_mmc=OGNews-_-2009_05_06-_-growingatoz-_-plan_a_beautiful_vegetable_garden

When I began my initial foray into the world of vegetables, I was a weekend gardener with limited time and no garden education. My only knowledge of vegetable gardening was definitely of the big-square-plot-of-dirt, row-each-of-tomatoes-beans-lettuces-etc. school of kitchen gardening. That was how I thought all vegetable gardens looked. Big. Plain. Rectangular. Aggressively functional with a nodding proximity to Tobacco Road.

Since then, I've learned that this strictly utilitarian model was a 19th-century invention. It developed as people moved away from rural life and home gardens to the cities, as production became centralized on industrial-size farms, and as machines that worked best when moving straight ahead replaced human labor. Then the whole thing got retrans- lated back to the backyard. The older, far more pleasing, approach, which reigned in backyards across the globe as long ago as the pleasure gardens of Babylon and right up through the 18th century, was based on smaller, more intimate plots, often divided into garden "rooms," incorporating a scheme of multiple raised beds planted with a diverse mixture of herbs, vegetables, fruit trees, and flowers.

To read the full article: http://www.organicgardening.com/featureprint/1,7759,s1-5-19-1434,00.html

Sunday, May 3, 2009

Gardening 101: May Gardening Tips

May Tips

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla%3Aen-US%3Aofficial&q=%22May+Tips%22&btnG=Search

Gardening 101: May Gardening Tips - Fruits and Nuts

May Tips: FRUIT AND NUTS

Protect developing strawberries from birds with a
spun-bonded row cover or plastic netting.

Technically, berries are fruits that are soft
throughout, such as blueberries. Thus the raspberry is
not a true berry, but a fruit is made of many small
sections each with a seed or pit. Fruits with fleshy
material surrounding a hard seed are called drupes. So
a raspberry is not a berry, but is a cluster of small
drupes or drupelets.

Thin peaches to 4 to 6 inches apart for large,
high-quality fruit.

Gardening 101: May Gardening Tips - Vegetables

May Tips: VEGETABLES

Silver Choice is a new cultivar of white corn that is
15 to 20 percent sweeter and matures two weeks earlier
than Silver Queen, according to Today's Garden, August
1993. The ears are 8 inches long, with 16 rows of
tender kernels.

Plant sweet corn and beans every two weeks through
June for an extended harvest.

Tomato cages are an inexpensive way to support your
long-stemmed perennials.

To store seed packets, place them in a small file box
labeled with the date they are to be planted. After
planting and labeling the plants with variety and date
planted, return the empty packets to the file for
future reference.

If you plan to can, plant determinate tomatoes so the
fruit will ripen all at once. If you prefer your
tomatoes fresh from the vine, plant indeterminate
tomatoes so the ripening will be staggered.

If spraying fruit trees near a vegetable garden, cover
the vegetables with a large sheet of plastic to
protect them from the spray.

When it is time to plant lettuce (early spring, about
one month before last frost), the climate is also
appropriate to plant chives, mint, oregano, parsley,
sage, sweet marjoram, tarragon, and thyme.

To control weeds in a garden: prevent weed seed
germination, destroy weeds that sprout before they
bear seed, and do not use mulches or compost
contaminated with weed seeds.

Chickweed is full of nutrients and has a nutty flavor
when eaten raw.
You also can eat it steamed with butter or other
flavorings.

Gourds of different shapes can be used to create
animals or birds by sticking legs and heads on them.
Try scratching a child's name into the skin when the
gourd is half grown. The gourd forms a scab over the
scratches, and as it grows, the name grows bigger and
bigger.

When tomato seedlings have five to seven leaves, they
are ready to transplant into the garden.

Successful eggplant development is dependent on a span
of temperatures (80 to 90 degrees F) and plenty of
water. Water well when the plants are young.
Water at least two times a week when temperatures are
high and there is no rain.

Southern peas require very little fertilization; too
much nitrogen encourages vine growth and delays pod
set. When peas are fully formed, harvest ripe pods to
encourage continuous production.

Extend your corn harvest by planting successive crops
when the previous crop has three to four leaves, or
plant early, mid-, and late-maturing varieties all at
the same time.

Cilantro, the green plant, is sometimes confused with
coriander, its seeds.
The leafy part has a strong taste distinctive in
Spanish and Mexican dishes, and chutney. The seeds
have a subtle orange flavor called for in bread,
pastry and pickle recipes. Cilantro and coriander are
not interchangeable, but cooks may become confused
when "fresh coriander" is called for, meaning
cilantro.

Inspect cauliflower every few days. Cut off the curd
when the flower sections begin to separate.

Keep beans and peas well watered to ensure maximum
nitrogen fixation.
Even mild, water stress can significantly reduce
nitrogen fixation.
Weight and number of nitrogen-fixing root nodules
decrease as water stress increases, and nitrogen
fixation ceases completely during extended dry
periods.

Researchers at the Agricultural Research Service have
found that many plants respond favorably to specific
wavelengths of reflected sunlight.
Different-colored mulch materials reflect different
wavelengths of light and have produced noticeable
results. Tomato harvests increased significantly in
both size and quality when plants were grown over red
plastic. Potatoes and green peppers produced best when
the plastic was white. Commonly, plastic sheeting is
available only in black or white, but gardeners may
want to experiment with ways to color their plastic
mulch.

To get early germination of okra and cowpea seeds, try
increasing seed moisture by placing seeds and dampened
vermiculite in plastic bags at room temperature for 3
days before planting in cold soils.
Early harvest and increased fresh-pod yield per plant
are more likely inplants grown from seed treated this
way.

Hops, a fast-growing, perennial vine, can become a
multiple asset in your edible landscape plan. In
addition to using the seed pods to flavor beer, poach
the flowers and serve them with butter or cream
sauce. Tender, spring shoots can be served like
asparagus, and trellised hops vines make good screens.

Another garden use for plastic milk jugs -- seep
irrigation. Simply use a large nail to punch holes in
the sides of a jug, spacing them about 2 inches apart.
Bury the jug, leaving the neck protruding from the
soil. Fill the jug with water (solutions of liquid
fertilizer may be used to water and fertilize at the
same time) and screw the cap on firmly. The water will
gradually seep out, providing a slow, deep irrigation
for surrounding plants.

When crops like squash or cucumbers are planted in a
circle or hill, place a stick upright in the middle of
the circle and leave it there. Later on, you'll know
where to water the main roots hidden among the vines.

Allow more space for pumpkins than for cucumbers or
melons. When the desired number of fruit have set, the
end of the vine can be pinched off to prevent
additional fruit production and encourage large fruit
size. Harvest when rind is hard enough so it can't be
penetrated with a fingernail.

To ensure pollination of sweet corn, plant several
rows together in a block, rather than in one long row.
Side-dress with 3 Tbsp. of 10-10-10 per 10 feet of row
when 12 to 18 inches high. Keep well watered,
especially from tasseling time to picking. Hill corn
plants by pushing a few inches of soil up around the
base of the plants when they are fertilized. This
provides stability, but take care not to disturb the
roots or remove suckers.

Regular sweet corn, super-sweet varieties, and popcorn
should be isolated from each other by at least 200
feet to prevent cross-pollination.

Green skin on potatoes means that sunlight is reaching
them. To prevent this condition, which causes
bitterness and is also toxic, pile more soil over the
hills or add a thick mulch of straw.

From an authority at Peto Seed Company: If you are
storing seeds for just a year or two, no special
packaging should be necessary if the sum of the
temperature (degrees F) plus the relative humidity is
always under 100. If the temperature and humidity sum
consistently exceeds 100, store seeds in airtight
containers with a desiccant to absorb excess moisture.
Powdered charcoal, milk powder, and rice are effective
desiccants. Dry desiccants at a low oven setting
before
use.

Cabbage loopers and imported cabbage worms are green
worms that eat large holes in the leaves of plants in
the cabbage family.
They are difficult to see, but the holes and green
"frass" or excrement on the plants are tell-tale
signs. For control, caterpillars may be hand-picked or
sprayed with Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis), a natural,
non-toxic preparation available by various trade
names.

Slugs love cool, moist weather and succulent, leafy
crops, especially lettuce and cabbage. Debris in the
garden provides them with a place to hide and should
be removed promptly. To see if your garden is under
attack, put out a board or invert a flower pot in the
garden.
The next morning, see if there are any slugs clinging
underneath. If so, begin removing them by hand every
few days to decrease their population.

Newly transplanted plants should be protected from
cutworms with collars. Cut strips of cardboard 2
inches wide by 8 inches long and staple them into a
band which is placed around the plants. Press the
collar about 1 inch into the soil.

Lettuce, tomato, bean, and pea are self-pollinating
annual vegetables from which seed can be easily saved.
Make sure the plants are open-pollinated (not hybrids)
or next year's plants probably will not resemble the
parent plants.

Plan vegetable gardens with nutrition in mind. Compare
the nutritional values of your crops with the amount
of space allotted them.
For example, your family will get more vitamins and
minerals from a block of spinach than from an equal
amount of lettuce.

Consider planting some ornamental gourds in the garden
this year.
After harvest in the fall, wash and dry them
thoroughly and paint them with clear shellac. Place
the gourds in a basket or bowl, and you'll have an
attractive centerpiece for Thanksgiving.

When thinning beans, watch for 'snake heads',
seedlings that have lost one or both of their
cotyledons and produce poor weak sprouts, and 'bald
heads', seedlings that have the growth point damaged
so severely that they can't develop. Both types of
seedlings will be
weak and delayed in growth and should be removed.

Stay out of the garden when foliage is wet. Walking
through a wet garden spreads disease from one plant to
another.

When planting large-seeded lima or butter bean seed in
heavy soils, it may help germination to plant the seed
on edge, facilitating the emergence of the large
cotyledons, or seed leaves. On light sandy soil, this
is of little value because such soil offers little
resistance to sprouts.

Deep transplanting is good for tomatoes. Tomato plants
can be set so deeply in the ground that only a little
tuft of leaves shows above the surface.
Remove all leaves that would be under the soil. New
roots will sprout along the stem. Don't try deep
transplanting with other vegetables or flowers.

Drive stakes for future support at the same time you
plant tomatoes.
If you try to install stakes later, you may damage the
plant roots.
Tie the plants to the stakes with a soft material such
as stockings or worn bed sheets that will not cut into
the stems.

Trellis and stake downwind from the prevailing winds
so plants will lean against the supports when the wind
is blowing.

According to USDA tests, amaranth is an excellent
substitute for cooked spinach. It does well in
midsummer heat and harvestable leaves are produced in
just 30 days from sowing.

Frequent picking of cucumber, summer squash, bean,
pea, lettuce, and greens while they are small and
tender will improve the quality of the produce and
increase the yield of each plant.

After planting seed from this year's packets, store
leftovers in a tightly sealed jar in the refrigerator.
Add a desiccant such as a layer of tissues in which 2
tablespoons of powdered milk have been wrapped to
absorb excess moisture from the air.

Four to five layers of newspaper will serve as an
effective mulch in the garden. Cover it with sawdust
or straw to reduce the white glare and prevent it from
blowing away.

Flea beetles can severely damage newly set plants.
Protect plants with a currently recommended
insecticide (check with yourlocal Extension agent) as
soon as these small, shiny, black, hopping insects are
noted. Floating row covers will prevent flea beetles
from damaging plants.

Spinach leaf miners tunnel between the surfaces of the
leaves of beet, spinach, Swiss chard, and lettuce and
leave white trails etched in the leaves. The tiny,
white grubs hatch from white eggs aid on the underside
of the leaf by a small fly. You can prevent the fly
from laying eggs on your plants by keeping them
covered with a cheesecloth tent or spun polyester row
cover. If you cannot cover your plants, consult your
Extension agent for recommended insecticidal controls.

When selecting green leafy vegetables, keep in mind
that, generally, the darker green the leaf, the higher
the vitamin content.
For example, romaine and looseleaf lettuce contain
more of vitamins A and C and calcium than either
crisphead or butterhead. Fresh spinach contains large
amounts of potassium, iron, and vitamin A.

Don't use a weed-and-feed type fertilizer in the
garden. Weed killers don't know a vegetable from a
weed. They may injure or contaminate your crops.

Friday, May 1, 2009

Vegetables – Growing Plants under Cover

Vegetables – Growing Plants under Cover
by Diana Greenwood Mead
April 27, 2009

http://www.supermarketguru.com/index.cfm/go/sg.viewArticle/articleId/438

At this time of year, when I am starting off my vegetable and salad seeds, and the weather blows hot and cold, rainy and sunny, I realize how useful my cold frames are - the added protection starts the little plants off so much better than just sowing in the ground and hoping everything will be all right.
If you are new to vegetable gardening, you’re probably thinking ‘what on earth is a cold frame?’ well, let me explain, and perhaps add a lot to your gardening pleasures.
I raise many of my seeds in a small electric ‘window sill’ propagator which warms the seeds and gets them going (although, if you have one without a temperature control, you have to remember to switch it off on a warm day).
But I then have quite a lot of very tender baby plants which would simply die if put straight into the garden, so this is where my faithful cold frames come in.

To read the full article: http://www.supermarketguru.com/index.cfm/go/sg.viewArticle/articleId/438

Thursday, April 16, 2009

Try No Dig Gardening for Your Backyard Vegetables

Try No Dig Gardening for Your Backyard Vegetables
by Warren McLaren, Sydney
04. 9.09

http://www.treehugger.com/files/2009/04/try-no-dig-gardening-for-your-backyard-vegetables.php?dcitc=weekly_nl

No-Dig Gardening is such a brilliant form of home-based agriculture I was convinced the TreeHugger archives would be rich with its merits. Was very surprised when I only found one mention, in a post chronicling Leonora's permaculture adventures in New Zealand. So I launched into the following first-person account of No-Dig, only to discover that in North America the same process might be better known as as Sheet Mulching. Nomenclature aside, it's worth covering the topic again. Especially if you want to grow your own veggies for a little food security.

Background to Cultivation Free Farming
No-Dig Gardening can probably trace its legacy back to visionary Japanese agricultural pioneer, Fukuoka Masanobu, who embarked on his Natural Farming experiment in 1938. His very productive organic farming methods did not require extensive soil tilling, weeding, or application of synthetic pesticide or fertilizer. Best known for his 1975 book One Straw Revolution, Fukuoka Masanobu advocated returning grain and rice straw stalks to the fields as a way of enriching soil development.

American home gardener, Ruth Stout, put out a book in 1971, called the No-Work Garden Book, which echoed Fukuoka’s decades of natural farming. Ruth, though maybe lacking some of the quiet humility and philosophy of her Japanese predecessor, also promoted covering gardens in a dense layer of straw and green mulch.

In the Antipodes we had Esther Dean, who released her own book Growing Without Digging in 1977, seeding a small cult following of No Dig gardeners. And, of course, Bill Mollison and David Holmgren who refined their concept of a nature-inspired agriculture with the publication of Permaculture One in 1978.

All would champion the idea that soil quality will dramatically improve if left undisturbed by cultivating, tilling, plowing, digging etc. They believed that soil was enriched with top layers of mulch decomposing to develop the appropriate communities of worms and micro-organisms that enhance food growth. Their ideas have since been embraced even in broad acre agriculture under the guise of no-till farming (see links below).

So How Does it Work in Practice?
There are many ways to implement a no-dig garden. What follows is just one method.

No Dig Beginnings photo

1. We selected a section of the yard that would get at least six hours of direct sunlight. Unfortunately we had to cut down a couple of trees to ensure this access when the sun dropped to lower plane in winter.

2. We set up four main beds, so we can practice crop rotation, which rests the soil and reduces chances of plant pests making a comfortable home in the soil.

Your first bed might get the root crops such as carrots, onions, beetroot and potatoes. The second is for Curcurbits, which are melons, pumpkins, squash, zucchini and cucumbers. Corn can also be planted here. For the third bed consider Acid Lovers: tomatoes, chillies, capsicums (peppers) and eggplant (aubergine). And in the last one go the Legumes, like peas and beans (These are also nitrogen enriching plants) and the Brassicas (cabbage, broccoli, lettuce, spinach, etc). Each year plant the same vegetables per bed, but one bed further round the rotation.

Separate non-rotating beds for herbs, and for perennials such as asparagus, strawberries and rhubarb, can also benefit from no dig methods.

To read the full article: http://www.treehugger.com/files/2009/04/try-no-dig-gardening-for-your-backyard-vegetables.php?dcitc=weekly_nl

Wednesday, April 15, 2009

Growing Salad Greens

Growing Salad Greens
by Diana Greenwood Mead
April 7, 2009

http://www.supermarketguru.com/index.cfm/go/sg.viewArticle/articleId/394

Suddenly spring has sprung in my part of the world – every tree is misted with pale green and all sorts of wild flowers are showing their faces in the hedgerows. At this time of the year my thoughts turn to salads and it seems there are more and more varieties waiting to be grown. So, (while reminding myself of the few that were disappointing last year), these are some of the interesting salad vegetables I’m thinking of growing this spring:

Amaranth greens (also called Chinese spinach). I think the taste for amaranth leaves comes to us from India – certainly I encountered it first in Indian cooking. There are green and red amaranth leaves, both pretty, pleasant tasting and excellent in salads and stir-fries.
Pak Choi (or Bok Choi) and Mizuna greens are basics of Oriental cooking and fast and easy to grow for salads. Mizuna greens have feathery fine cut leaves and are deliciously peppery.
Beetroot leaves are very nice in a salad when young – and you have the bonus of a small beetroot at the other end!

To read the full article: http://www.supermarketguru.com/index.cfm/go/sg.viewArticle/articleId/394

Friday, March 27, 2009

How to Start an Organic Garden in 9 Easy Steps

How to Start an Organic Garden in 9 Easy Steps
Grow your own delicious, healthful organic food. Tips on planning, composting, watering, weeding, harvesting, natural pest control and more.
By Brian Clark Howard

http://www.thedailygreen.com/green-homes/latest/organic-gardening-tips-460309?src=nl&mag=tdg&list=dgr&kw=ist

The Benefits of Organic Gardening
You've been trying to eat more organic foods, both to decrease the amount of pesticides you and your family consume, and to help protect the environment from overloading with toxic chemicals. But organics can get a bit expensive, we know. Luckily, there's a way to grow your own delicious, fresh produce, while having fun and learning at the same time: organic gardening!

Don't know where to start? It is possible to hire someone to install and maintain a beautiful organic garden for you. But most of us can roll up our sleeves with a surprisingly small amount of effort. Remember, you can start small, even with just a single plant or two. Don't worry if things aren't perfect right away.

Organic gardening means you won't be using synthetic fertilizers or pesticides, but that doesn't mean your plants are left to fend for themselves. There are an array of tools you can use to bolster plant health and ward off pests. Organic gardening also isn't just about what you don't do, it's about trying to foster a more holistic, natural ecosystem. Read on for specific tips, taken from The Daily Green's expert garden blogger, Leslie Land, her New York Times book 1000 Gardening Questions & Answers and other sources.

Preparing the Soil
In order to get the best results with your new organic garden, you'll want to make sure the soil is properly conditioned. You have to eat, and so do plants, so make sure your veggies get lots of fresh nutrients. Good healthy soil helps build up strong, productive plants. Chemical soil treatments can not only seep into your food, but they can also harm the beneficial bacteria, worms and other microbes in the soil.

The best way to gauge the quality of your soil is to get it tested. You can get a home testing kit, or better, send a sample to your local agricultural extension office. For a modest fee you'll get a complete breakdown of pH and nutrient levels, as well as treatment recommendations (be sure to tell them you're going organic). That way you can tailor your gardening program. Typically, it's best to test in the fall, and apply any organic nutrients before winter.

Even if you don't have time for testing, you'll want to make sure your soil has plenty of humus -- the organic matter, not the similarly named Mediterranean spread. According to 1000 Gardening Questions & Answers, you'll want to mix in compost, leaf and grass clippings and manure. Manure should be composted, unless you aren't going to harvest or plant anything for two months after application. Preferably, get your manure from local livestock that have been organically and humanely raised -- and never use manure from animals that eat meat.

How to Make Good Compost
All gardens benefit from compost -- and preferably you can make your own on site. Hey, it's free! Compost feeds plants, helps conserve water, cuts down on weeds, and keeps food and yard waste out of landfills (where it produces methane), instead turning garbage into "black gold." Spread compost around plants, mix with potting soil, use to bolster struggling plants…it's hard to use too much!

According to Country Living, the best compost forms from the right ratio of nitrogen- and carbon-rich organic waste, mixed with soil, water and air. It might sound like complicated chemistry, but don't worry too much if you don't have time to make perfect compost. Even a minimally tended pile will still yield decent results.

1. To get started, measure out a space at least three feet square. Your compost heap can be a simple pile or contained within a custom pen or bin (some can be rotated, to improve results).

2. Add alternating layers of carbon (or brown) material -- leaves and garden trimmings -- and nitrogen (or green) material -- such as kitchen scraps and manure, with a thin layer of soil in between.

3. Top off the pile with four to six inches of soil. Turn the pile as new layers are added and water to keep (barely) moist, in order to foster microbe action. You should get good compost in as little as two months (longer if it's cold).

4. A properly maintained compost pile shouldn't smell. But if it does add more dry carbon material (leaves, straw, or sawdust) and turn it more frequently.

5. Even if you live in a city, you can do some composting under your counter with a tidy worm kit, or partner with a community garden.

Choose the Right Plants
It really pays to select plants that will thrive in your specific micro-conditions. As a general guide don't forget to check the USDA's Hardiness Zones (which have recently been updated by the National Arbor Day Foundation due to climate change). Choose plants that will be well adjusted to each spot, in terms of light, moisture, drainage and soil quality. Most gardens have gradations in these variables. The happier your plants are, the more resistant they'll be to attackers.

If you're buying seedlings, look for plants raised without chemical fertilizers and pesticides. A great place to look is at your local farmers' market, which may also have native plants and varieties well suited to your area. It's better to buy stocky seedlings with few, if any blooms yet, and with roots that don't look overcrowded.

Many things are best grown from seed, including sunflowers, annual poppies, evening-scented stock (Matthiola bicornis), coriander, dill, annual phlox (Phlox drummondii), larkspur, annual lupine, morning glories, sweet peas, squash and cucumbers.

Plant Crops in Wide Beds
Plants that you will be harvesting, such as vegetables or cutting flowers, should be grouped tightly in beds that you don't walk on (raised beds work great). Grouping reduces weeding and water waste, and helps you target compost and nutrients. Easier path maintenance helps lead to healthy soil. Ample space between rows helps promote air circulation, which repels fungal attacks.

Proper Watering
The best time to water plants is usually in the morning. Why? Mornings tend to be cool and without strong winds, so the amount of water lost to evaporation is reduced. If you water in the evening plants stay damp over night, making them more likely to be damaged by fungal and bacterial diseases.

Ideally, you want to water the roots, not the greenery, which is easily damaged. A drip or soak system can work great, or just carefully water the bases of plants by hand.

Most experts recommend substantial, infrequent watering for established plants, typically a total of about one inch of water per week (including rain). One or two applications a week encourages deeper rooting, which promotes stronger plants. To avoid shocking tender greenery, try to use water at or near air temperature (collected rainwater is best).

With population growth and climate change putting increasing pressure on our precious freshwater supplies, it is becoming more important than ever to save water.

Weeding
Ah weeding. Even if you live in the Biosphere, you'll still get weeds, since their tiny seeds are pervasive. Pulling weeds by hand may sound like hard work -- and it can be -- but it also can be good exercise, and gets you outside in the fresh air. You don't want to pour toxic chemicals on your food, or where your children and pets play, right?

Reduce the number of weeds you have to contend with by applying mulch (which also helps protect the soil). According to Leslie Land, organic mulch that will rot down into the soil is almost always preferable to landscape fabric, although burlap and other materials can work in a pinch. Straw is cheap but doesn't last long. Wood chips are nice, but can get pricey. Many people opt to use lawn clippings, although it should be noted that because they are high in nitrogen, clippings should only be used on plants that need a lot of the nutrient, such as squash and lettuce.

If you get tired of weeding or aren't able to bend over, consider hiring some neighborhood kids. It's a good way to get to know others in your community. Remember too that raised beds can be made wheelchair accessible, and others can take advantage of wheeled stools, arthritis-friendly gardening tools and other equipment.

Protect Plants Without Toxic Pesticides
If your plants are being assaulted by pests, it may be a sign of other problems, so the first thing you should do is make sure they are getting enough light, nutrients and moisture. Also remember that a diverse garden helps prevent pests, by limiting the amount of one type of plant offered up to enemies, and boosting biodiversity.

It's a good thing to foster natural predators in your garden, such as frogs, toads, lizards, birds, and even bats. Beneficial insects can be your best friends, especially lady bugs (many nurseries even sell cans of them, though it's true there's a high probability they won't stick around). Leave a small source of water out to attract friendly predators. It's also a good idea to grow plants with small blossoms, such as sweet alyssum and dill, which attract predatory insects. Nets and row covers can also work.

It may sound surprising, but homeowners use more pesticides on their lawns and gardens than farmers do, acre for acre, according to EPA data. But there are organic alternatives that are much safer for you and our environment. Find out what problem you have (an agricultural extension service can help), then look for alternatives.

Organic weapons include Bacillus thuringiensis, a naturally occurring bacteria that disrupts the digestion of caterpillars and other leaf-eaters. You can also use horticultural oils, insecticidal soaps and garlic and/or hot pepper sprays.

Harvesting
Don't forget to harvest the fruits of your labor! Fresh organic produce also makes great gifts, educating your friends, neighbors and coworkers. Generally, the more you harvest, the more your plants will produce for you.

During peak harvest season, you'll likely find that it's best to check your garden every day. Got herbs? If you use them fresh pick them right before you need them. But if you'll be drying and storing them, it's best to wait until just before they flower, since they'll have the most flavor. Gather all herbs except basil in mid morning, shortly after dew has dried. Harvest basil in the late afternoon, since it will last longer after some time in the sun. It's best not to wash herbs before you dry or use them, since that can leach flaor (extra incentive for growing organic!).

When harvesting leafy greens pick sporadically from the entire crop, a little from each plant. For broccoli, wait until the central head is as large as it will get, before sending off buds for flowering. Cut it off right above the leaf node, and you'll likely get better production from the rest of the plant. In general, it's best to cut produce off with a sharp knife or scissors, versus ripping with your fingers, which can cause more damage to plant tissue.

If you get too much bounty, remember you can also freeze, store some types of produce in a root cellar, or take up canning. Enjoy!

Cleanup
If you have sick plants to remove, either during the season or at the end of the year, make sure you pull up the entire organism. Don't forget to rake up underneath, since diseased leaves can harbor problems for a long time. Put all infected material deep in the woods, in the ground at least a foot deep, or on the bonfire.

Most healthy or expired plants can actually be left in place over winter. You'll provide some food and habitat for birds and other wildlife, and plant cover can help protect your soil from eroding. It's better to chop off annuals then yank them out, because that way you'll leave soil intact, and help prevent weeds from gaining a foothold.

Thursday, March 26, 2009

Put in a Small Rain Garden

Put in a Small Rain Garden
Homeowners and businesses can stem the tide of polluted runoff threatening our waterways by setting up a simple "rain garden," which is beautiful as well as beneficial.

http://www.thedailygreen.com/print-this/going-green/tips/4792
http://www.thedailygreen.com/going-green/tips/4792?src=nl&mag=tdg&list=dgr&kw=ist

The concept of a rain garden, which mimics natural systems, was crystallized in Maryland in the 1990s. The idea is to create a depression filled with plants that collects the rainwater that runs off a building and its landscape. The plants — such as sedges, rushes, ferns, wildflowers, shrubs, trees and so on — absorb the water and release it slowly. This reduces the surge of water running off the landscape, which picks up fertilizers, pesticides, motor oil and other contaminants and carries them into waterways.

Rain gardens reduce the risk of flash floods, and they help stabilize the flow that enters waterways, both in terms of volume and temperature. That leads to healthier streams and rivers. Plus, the plants naturally filter the water, neutralizing some of the toxins that are present. They also provide valuable wildlife habitat.

No two rain gardens are exactly the same. They can be large and interconnected, with different levels and features, or very small and simple. Normally, they are placed in natural low spots, near where gutters drain. Ideally, they are populated with plants that are native to the local area. Sometimes they have swales to maximize their ability to hold water. Get tips on starting one here
http://www.dnr.state.wi.us/runoff/rg/

Friday, March 13, 2009

Plan A New Garden

Plan A New Garden

http://www.organicgardening.com/feature/0,7518,s1-5-19-10,00.html?trafficsource=OGNews_2009_03_04
http://www.organicgardening.com/featureprint/1,7759,s1-5-19-10,00.html

Choose the best site for your new beds and borders.

A little planning can go a long way in gardening. Before you even head to the nursery, start by looking around your yard and taking note of which areas get a lot of sun, which are shaded all day, and which are sunlit for part of the day. Also, notice which spots tend to be damp all the time and which dry out very fast. Now you can use that information to choose the site of your new garden and the plants that will fare well there. When you select plants that thrive in your conditions, you have to care for them less.

Prepare your new garden beds before you buy your plants. Loosen the soil with a shovel, garden fork and/or tiller 6 to 8 inches deep, and add several inches of compost to it. If the soil is sandy, mix in an extra helping of compost. In most climates, vegetables, fruits and herbs grow best in raised beds, which are built up 4 to 6 inches above the surrounding ground. Most flowers thrive in raised beds, too. The soil in raised beds drains quickly so plants never sit in water, and the soil warms up fast in spring.

You can build a raised bed by adding a lot of organic matter to the soil and fluffing up the soil with a garden fork, then raking soil from the areas that will be paths up onto the beds. Many gardeners like to enclose their raised beds in wooden or plastic frames; others just mound up the soil. (Please don't frame your garden with what's commonly called "pressure-treated" CCA wood—it contains arsenic and other toxins that can leach into your soil.)
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