Backyard vegetable garden

Backyard Vegetable Garden

Backyard Vegetable Garden

http://eartheasy.com/grow_backyard_vegetable_garden.html

"Our Backyard Food Factory"

This is how our family refers to our small backyard vegetable garden. In just
500 sq.ft. (20' x 25'), we enjoy a wealth of fresh vegetables up to eight months
of the year.

Working in the garden is also a shared experience for the family, and instills
in children an understanding of the natural cycles of growth which provide
lessons of lifelong value.

Consider the benefits of growing your own vegetables at home:
- lowers the cost of providing your family with healthy, organic vegetables
- reduces the environmental impact of transporting and warehousing food
- makes your meals more personal, interesting
- connects your family to the natural cycles of weather, growth and renewal
- provides wholesome activity and lasting memories for your children

garden layout: siting and size
Ideally, a backyard vegetable garden should contribute to your family's
well-being without taking too much of your scarce free time. This can be
achieved with a little planning to get started out right, and a commitment to
low-maintenance organic methods which save time and ensure a healthy garden year
after year.

Whether you are growing a single bed for salad greens or a multiple bed
"backyard food factory", the following tips should be considered before you
start digging.

• garden size - the size you choose for your vegetable garden will be
determined by the amount of available space and the amount of energy you wish to
commit to the project. Even a 100 sq.ft. garden, grown intensively, can produce
a steady supply of salad greens for a family.
Our backyard garden is 20' x 25' (500 sq. ft.), and this is an ideal size which
provides a variety of vegetables for a family of four, with enough extra to
share with neighbors.
• orientation to sun and shade - the plants in your garden will want to face
south, and will require a minimum of 5 hours of direct sunlight per day. Observe
the path of shadows during the day from any trees, fences, tall objects or
adjacent buildings in your yard. The area of maximum continuous light will
likely be the best location for you garden.
• proximity to trees, root systems - besides the shading effects of trees,
consider the spread of their roots. Locate your garden plot at least 10' beyond
the drip line of any nearby trees. If you must grow close to any trees, you may
need to dig a barrier around your garden to block root incursions. This can be
done by digging a narrow trench to hard clay, or at least deeper than existing
roots. Set a sheet of galvanized metal roofing , or any inert heavy material
which roots cannot penetrate, on edge. Then fill in the trench with the barrier
material even with the soil level or slightly above.
• envision future trees - planning on adding fruit trees in the future ? Plan
for them now, by envisioning a 20' root spread, and the future shading effect of
the tree.
• wind exposure - in windy areas, a fence or berm can serve as a wind barrier.
• if land is sloped, you will need to terrace the beds. The beds should be
level or you will encounter problems with uneven water distribution and erosion.
To terrace a bed, build up the low side with boards, flat rocks or wood slabs
which are often available for free at sawmills.
• anticipate future crop rotations - reserve space for an extra bed for next
season's use, where some of your plantings will be relocated. When not in use,
this bed should be planted in a 'green manure' cover crop which builds soil
tilth and adds nutrients while keeping the bed free of weeds.

garden bed and soil preparation
Any seasoned gardener knows that successful gardening is all about the soil.
Once your beds are prepared and the soil is enriched and ready to plant, the
bulk of your gardening work is finished. To ensure a healthy, productive garden,
consider these basic tips.

• how many beds to plant? - Unless you're planning on planting one very
long bed, you'll need to establish several beds to fit the shape of your garden
plot. It's useful to grow in multiple beds because plants with similar
requirements can be grown together, and then rotated to different beds in
successive years. Rotating crops is key to retaining healthy crops year after
year.
• minimum 21" width pathways- The pathways between beds should be just wide
enough to allow your wheelbarrow to get in. In our garden, this is 21". If space
allows, a 24" width is ideal.
• how big to make the beds? - Vegetable beds can be any length, but keep the
widths under 4' for ease of weeding, mulching and tending the plants in the
middle of the bed.
• raised beds vs in-ground beds - Colder climates benefit from raised beds
because the soil warms faster in spring which lets you start planting sooner. In
hot climates, in-ground beds require less watering than raised beds. To learn
more about raised beds, click here.

in-ground garden beds
- easiest way to get a bed established; nothing to build
- cheaper than buying lumber for raised beds
- pathway weeds can creep into the bed
- you have to reach further down to tend the plants

raised garden beds
- provide the best drainage and prevent soil compaction
- soil warms up more quickly in the spring
- the bed sides prevent weeds from creeping into the bed
- easier to tend the plants because the soil level is raised
- serve as a barrier to pests such as slugs and snails
- for more information, including how to build, click here

'sunken' raised garden beds
- by digging down, the pathway topsoil is added to the beds; this is a way to
fill raised beds without importing soil.
- same benefits as raised beds, but less drainage in wet months
- less of a visual impact in the yard. While the beds are 12" deep, the surface
of the beds is only 4" - 6" above ground level

• prepare the soil - if the soil in your yard has never been gardened, chances
are your vegetables will do well in the first year. This is because untapped
nutrients and minerals are available. In subsequent years, however, the
gardener's adage applies: "you get out what you put in."

~ determine soil ph - acid vs alkaline. Soil test kits are available for this
purpose, although we have never used them. Dandelions thrive at a pH level of
about 7.5, and are a sign of alkaline soil, while the presence of moss indicates
acidity.
Acidic soils (low ph) can be sweetened by adding lime. Alkaline soils (high ph),
need gardener's sulfur and rich organic matter and should be mulched with acidic
materials such as pine needles and forest duff. Alkaline soil is more common to
arid regions.
~ "double-dig" new garden plots - Dig down 12" - 18" for first time beds. Turn
the soil and remove rocks and roots. Use a pitchfork instead of a shovel because
the fork is easier to penetrate and turn hard soil and separate out the rocks.
Also this minimizes harm to the valued earthworm population.
~ check moisture level - Soil should be dry before planting. It shouldn't clump
or stick to your boots. Provide drainage if necessary by digging a shallow
drainage trench alongside the bed, or grow in raised beds for improved drainage.

• develop the right soil texture - Garden soil should be well aerated to
promote root growth and worm activity. The soil should be crumbly, not clumpy.
Add peat or coir as needed.
• add organic matter - Once the soil is turned and any large clumps are broken
up, you can enrich the soil with organic matter. This material should be dug, or
hoed, into the top 6" of soil where is will be available to the root systems of
young plants. The best sources for organic matter are:
~ compost - Compost adds nutrient-rich humus which fuels plant growth and
restores vitality to depleted soil. The compost bin is an essential part of any
backyard vegetable garden. In close residential neighborhoods, sealed compost
units are best because they don't smell or attract pests or flying insects.
There are two basic types of sealed composters: units which stand on the ground
and have open bottoms; these usually sell for $50 - $100. Compost tumblers are
fully sealed and off the ground, and they sell for $150 - $400. Compost tumblers
also speed up the composting process.
To learn more about compost and composters, click here.
To see our collection of composters for sale, click here.
~ manure - cow or horse manure are a good source of organic matter. Ideally, the
manure should be well aged so as not to burn any tender transplants. The
liability of bring manure into your garden is the weed seeds they may contain.
This can be mitigated through the use of mulch which covers the ground and
blocks light from reaching any weed seeds.
~ green manure - these are fast growing plants from the legume family that can
be easily chopped up and spaded into the soil, adding green organic matter which
readily composts into humus. Green manure plants are commonly planted in fall
and tilled into the soil in early spring. More information on green manure is on
page 3 of this guide.
~ sea soil - many garden centers carry 'sea soil' which is a combination of fish
by-products and sawdust. Sea soil is rich but not too hot - it can be applied
directly to beds.

• add any additional soil amendments - your garden center will carry products
such as bonemeal, bloodmeal, and a variety of amendments which address specific
soil needs. After a season of gardening you'll have a better idea of any
specific soil deficiencies you may want to address.
• level the soil and rake it smooth - This final touch only takes a few
minutes but this enhances uniform water absorption from rain or the sprinkler,
and encourages more uniform sprouting.
• mulch the paths between beds - Wait until the bed preparation is complete
before mulching the pathways. This is because any dirt clods which may fall onto
the pathway will encourage weed growth. Scrape away any grass or surface weeds
and cover the pathways with two layers of landscape cloth. Then cover with a 2"
layer of bark mulch. This will keep weeds from sprouting in the paths and
migrating into the beds.
• avoid stepping on the finished beds - Once the soil is prepared for planting
there should be no further need to step on the bed. Stepping on the beds will
compress the soil and reduce aeration. If you need to stand on the bed, lay a
plank across for walking on. This will spread the weight and minimize soil
compaction.

While it may seem like a lot of work to get the beds established for planting,
this can be done in stages. You can start with a small plot and enlarge the
garden as time and inspiration allow. Remember, the bulk of the work,
establishing the beds, only has to be done once. Once in place, nutrients can be
added by 'top dressing', and will not require heavy digging or strenuous work. A
well-planned and prepared garden will provide many years of productivity with
relatively minimal routine maintenance.