Garden projects for early spring
Suggestions for starting the spring garden out right
By Greg Seaman
Feb 22, 2009
http://www.eartheasy.com/blog/2009/02/garden-projects-for-early-spring/
The urge to garden in early spring is primal. Re-connecting with the earth is affirming, renewing, promising. Waking up the garden to a new growing season is about more than soil and seedlings…this rite of spring is a tonic to the gardener as well.
Early spring garden tasks
Clear drainage ditches
Leaves and debris gather in drainage areas over the winter. Now is the time to ensure that the spring rains will have adequate runoff. Spring seedlings do best in soil which drains well.
Repair any bowed sides to raised beds.
Soggy winter soil puts a strain on raised beds; sometimes a stake will rot and give way. Any bowed or leaning sides should be fixed now. Dig back the soil behind the bowed side and drive in new stakes with a slight inward lean. Push sideboards up to stakes and fasten well with screws or nails. If you prefer to replace old raised beds with newer models, click here to see our selection of raised beds.
Trellis and fencing are also easiest to repair in early spring, with less growth to work around and fewer roots to disturb.
Weed young spring weeds.
Mulch bare spots in beds. Any weeds which appear in your garden beds will be easiest to pull now, as the roots are shallow. Covering bare spots with mulch or ground cover will minimize the emergence of new weeds. A depth of 3 to 4 inches is usually sufficient. To help prevent rot, keep mulch a few inches away from tree trunks and the crowns and stems of plants.
When it’s dry enough, ‘top dress’ beds
Use compost or well-seasoned manure in preparation for planting. Resist the urge to dig the bed; established beds have a complex soil ecosystem which is best left undisturbed. Nutrients added from the top will work their way down into the soil.
Early spring is the time for lime.
Soils with a pH below 6.2 will benefit from the addition of lime. Dolomite is the finest grind, and is recommended. With ground limestone it will take twice as long for plants to derive any benefit from it. Ideally, lime should be added several weeks before planting. Hydrate lime, or “quick lime”, is not recommended, as it can change the soil pH so rapidly that plants may be damaged. Cover newly limed beds with plastic during heavy spring rains to prevent runoff. Soil pH can be determined by using a soil pH test kit .
Prepare your lawn for summer
Rake the lawn to remove dead growth, and winter debris and let light and air to the soil level, encouraging the grass to grow. Re-seed bare patches of lawn. Rake the bare spot firmly with a metal rake. Sprinkle grass seed into a bucket of soil and spread evenly over the bare spot. Keep well-watered until seeds germinate and the new grass establishes. Pre-emergent herbices such as corn gluten may be applied now.
Remove dead foliage of ornamental grasses and ferns
Once growth begins this becomes difficult without damaging the plant. New growth will quickly replace the culled foliage.
Vegetables and flowers
Plant early spring vegetables when soil is workable
Soil is ready for gardening once it is free of ice crystals and crumbles easily. Soil that is too wet is easily compacted, reducing beneficial soil aeration. Common early spring crops are peas, spinach, lettuces and leeks. For a prolonged harvest, plant several varieties, each with a different maturation date. Follow these crops with broccoli, cabbage, radishes, kale, turnips, new potatoes and onions. Mulch early bulbs if you live in areas where freezing temperatures hang on.
Protect seedlings from hard frosts
Early spring plantings are vulnerable to hard frost which can set in overnight. If you expect a hard frost, cover seedlings overnight with anything you have on hand - an overturned bucket (with a rock on top) or large flower pot, a portable garden cloche, or row cover.
Be one step ahead of the cabbage moth
Once the frosts are gone, the cabbage moth may appear. It lays eggs against the lower stems of brassica seedlings - cabbage, broccoli, brussel sprout, kale, cauliflower. Once the eggs hatch, the seedlings lose vigor and often die. Be prepared to protect these crops from root maggots by covering plantings with row covers or small pieces of barrier paper. Maggots are more of a problem in cool, wet soils.
Plant out your bulbs
Plant out daffodils, lilies, crocus, hyacinth and any other bulbs, which were forced in pots or bowls in the house. Some may bloom next spring, others may take two or three years to rebuild enough food reserve to support flowering.
Divide perennials
For easier handling try to time the division so emerging shoots are only 2 or 4 inches tall. Prepare new beds for perennial flowers by spreading a 6-inch deep layer of organic matter (i.e. peat moss, compost, rotted manure) and work in deeply. Plants growing in deep, rich soil are less likely to suffer from summer drought.
Shrubs and trees
Remove the dead and damaged
Prune out dead or damaged branches of trees and shrubs after new growth has begun. Cut back any remaining dead perennial foliage from last season. Prune roses just before they start to bud out. Spring blooming trees and shrubs, however, should not be pruned in late winter, their flower buds ready to open as temperatures warm. Azaleas, forsythia, weigela, dogwood, and other spring shrubs can be pruned after they bloom.
Prune fruit trees
Fruit tree pruning is best done in late winter or early spring. Prune before buds begin to break into bloom or the tree may be stressed resulting in a reduced crop.
Remove stakes and guy wires installed on trees planted last fall
Allowing a little swaying of tree stems results in sturdy yet resilient plants. Thin out some branches of trees, which have a history of leaf spot diseases. Pruning will improve air circulation and penetration of sunlight, which in turn can reduce the incidence of disease. Remove tree guards or burlap wraps from the trunks of young tree or shrubs. This will prevent moisture beneath the wrap, which can encourage rot and promote entry of diseases.
Transplant
Transplant any existing shrubs you want to move before they begin to leaf out.
Apply horticultural oil sprays to pear and apple trees
Apply oil spray to pears just as the buds begin to swell and then again 10 days later to control pear psylla and pear leaf blister mite. Make a single application of oil on apple trees when a half-inch of green tissue is visible in developing buds.
Oil
Also apply oil to ornamental trees and shrubs with a history of aphid, scale or spider mite infestations. Destroying these pests safely with spring applications of horticultural oil will reduce your use of pesticides later in the growing season.
